What dish makes you feel like “home”?
What does it smell like? Like in the movie “Ratatouille,” when the critic tastes a bite and is transported to his grandmother’s table. For me, it’s the scent of onions, butter, and paprika.
When St. Johns Citizen invited me to share recipes and stories here, this memory immediately came to mind. I knew I had to begin with the dish that’s always been close to my heart: Hungarian goulash with homemade spätzle (Pörkölt Nokedli).
The first time I made it, I wasn’t standing in a grand restaurant in France—I was a boy in my grandmother’s kitchen.
She was Hungarian, and when the cooler weather rolled in, she’d simmer her goulash slowly, filling the whole house with the aroma of paprika, onions and beef that grew more tender by the hour.
Years later, I found myself in the kitchens of world-renowned chefs, where every plate was expected to be perfect. But the lesson that stayed with me was the feeling that food can create. For me, goulash wraps around you like a blanket.
Today, I cook this dish with my two boys, Alex and Nico.
They love dropping the spätzle dough into the pot, laughing when the pieces come out in funny shapes. And just like with my grandmother, the house fills with that same familiar warmth.
Here’s the beauty of this dish: it’s simple, comforting and even better the next day. In fact, goulash is one of those meals where the sauce gets richer with time—perfect to cook in a big batch and freeze for those evenings when you need something nourishing, fast.
As autumn settles into Ponte Vedra, I can’t think of a better recipe to share with you—one that connects three generations in my family, and hopefully brings the same comfort to yours.
Stay tuned: in the coming months, I’ll be sharing more stories from the kitchens that shaped me—from legendary dining rooms in France, to unexpected lessons along the way, to the dishes that continue to inspire me at home.
For now, I’ll leave you with this: sometimes the most extraordinary recipes don’t come from the world’s finest restaurants. They come from the people who first taught us how to love food.
Hungarian Pörkölt with Nokedli (Goulash with Spätzle)
Serves 4
Pörkölt (Stew) Ingredients
- 1 large onion, finely chopped
- 1 lb stew meat (beef, pork, or lamb — traditionally beef or pork shoulder), cut into bite-sized cubes
- 2 tbsp Hungarian sweet paprika
- 2 tbsp tomato paste
- 2–3 tbsp lard or oil (traditionally lard is used)
- About 2 cups meat broth (you may not need all of it — add gradually as it cooks)
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Pörkölt Procedure
1. Prepare the Base (“Pörkölt Alap”)
- Heat the lard (or oil) in a heavy pot over medium heat.
- Add the finely chopped onion and cook slowly, stirring often, until soft and golden. Don’t let it burn.
2. Add the Paprika
- Remove the pot from heat briefly (this prevents the paprika from burning and turning bitter).
- Stir in the paprika quickly, coating the onions until everything is deep red.
3. Add the Meat
- Immediately add the cubed meat and return the pot to medium-high heat.
- Stir well to coat the meat in the paprika-onion base. Sear until browned on all sides.
4. Add Tomato Paste and Seasoning
- Stir in the tomato paste, salt, and pepper. Mix well.
5. Simmer
- Pour in just enough broth to cover the meat halfway — this is a stew, not a soup.
- Reduce heat to low, cover partially, and simmer gently for 1.5 to 2 hours, stirring occasionally.
- Add broth gradually as needed to keep the stew moist, but aim for a thick, rich sauce.
6. Finish
- When the meat is tender and the sauce has reduced to a paprika-rich gravy, taste and adjust seasoning if needed.
Nokedli (Spätzle) Ingredients
- 2 cups all-purpose flour (about 250 g)
- 3 large eggs
- 1 cup water (240 ml; adjust as needed)
- 1 tsp salt
Nokedli Procedure
1. Make the Dough
- In a bowl, whisk the eggs with the water and salt.
- Gradually add flour, stirring with a wooden spoon until you get a thick, sticky batter.
It should be looser than pasta dough — more like very thick pancake batter. - Let the batter rest for 10–15 minutes.
2. Boil Water
- Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
3. Form the Spätzle
- Place the batter on a spätzle maker, a colander with large holes, or a cutting board.
- Push or scrape small portions into the boiling water.
- Work in batches so the noodles don’t clump.
4. Cook
- Once the spätzle float to the surface (about 2–3 minutes), they’re done.
- Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a bowl.
5. Finish
- Toss with a little butter to prevent sticking, or serve directly alongside the Pörkölt.
6. Enjoy!
Paul Sebess is a French-trained chef and Nocatee-based baker who shares approachable recipes and insights on local flavors. Follow him on Instagram @paindepaul and Facebook @LePaindePaul.
